Growing Raspberries and Blackberries

Question:

I’m going to purchase several Blackberry and Raspberry plants to grow on a fence. How much sun do they require, do I feed them when they are transplanted and will they bare fruit this coming summer or next summer.

Answer:

Blackberry and Raspberries are a wonderful addition as long as the plants are contained; hence, they are not advisable for every garden. They require six hours of sunlight per day, April through October. However, you do not want to plant any berry vines on a fence that is also the property line. It can be an expensive nightmare dealing with a neighbor(s) disputes as the vines will intrude next door. Berry vines are an aggressive grower with above and below ground stems or rhizomes. Instead, grow the vines on a separate trellis structure that is four to six feet off any fence line. This way you can head off the problems before it’s too late. If possible, I would place the trellis in a north south direction. This will allow the berries to ripen on both sides of the vines. Blackberry and Raspberry vines should produce fruit next year as the berries are produced on the second year canes. The vines are best pruned after you finish harvesting all the berries. The fruiting canes are cut off at the ground. You replace them on the trellis with the best of the new shoots growing from the base. All the other new growth is removed. You need to be diligent with pruning off the basal shoots otherwise the vines can get out of hand. Again, the berries will only develop on the second year canes. At the time of planting, I would add Starter Fertilizer along with amending the soil with homemade compost or soil conditioner.

Question:

I’d like to plant several Buckeyes on a hillside. I’ve collected several pods off an existing plant. Now, what do I do? I’ve read that growing things like acorns in a bucket isn't good thing because of the tap root.

Answer:

You should be successful germinating the Buckeye seed pods but I wouldn’t plant them in the open ground. Instead, germinate the seeds first and then transplant the seedlings out into the ground later this year. Also, I’d germinate all the seeds you have. This allows you to select the most vigorous seedlings to transplant. A nursery flat, tray or container filled with pre-moistened potting soil would work. I’d transplant the seedlings into individual containers after they are two inches tall. Buckeyes have a spreading root system instead of a taproot so planting in containers shouldn’t be an issue. You need to break open the pods to expose the individual seeds inside. They should be a shiny bright color. If they have a dull, wrinkle appearance they may not germinate. If you have poor germination, I’d try it again in the fall with new seed pods.