Growing Radishes & Keeping Ants And Bees Away From Your Hummingbird Feeder

Question:

 What could be easier than growing radishes? My recent crop sprouted within two weeks, and now they are flowering! The foliage is very lush with tall stems, but the radishes are tiny and thin. I've never had this happen before. Were the seeds planted too shallow or too deep, is there too much Nitrogen in the soil? 

Answer:

  • Lush top growth with little or no root development is the typical growth pattern with radishes, carrots, and other root crops from too much Nitrogen.
    • The Nitrogen stimulates the top growth. The plants grow rapidly at the expense of underground plant parts with short-term crops.
  •  Excessive Nitrogen occurs from commercial fertilizers, animal manures, and blended soil amendments used as organic matter. Of the three, the soil amendments are the least problematic. With clay soils, they are critical for drainage and to help with soil compaction.
    • For a ten by ten area or one hundred square feet, two cubic feet of animal manure and five pounds of Vegetable Food plus the soil amendment is sufficient.
    • Many times the area is underestimated while the nutrients are over-applied. It's the 'if a little is good, then a lot more is even better rationale.
    • Superphosphate is often substituted for Vegetable Food where root crops are to be planted. Superphosphate has no nitrogen but plenty of phosphorus for root development, which is the plant's edible portion.
  •  This situation is easily corrected by adjusting the Nitrogen based nutrients when planting. Nitrogen is a mobile element that leaches out of the soil over time.
  • I wouldn't hesitate to plant a new crop of radishes immediately, but I wouldn't add any more nutrients. I would cultivate the ground and may add more amendments before sowing the seed.

Question:

 How can I keep the ants and bees away from my Hummingbird feeder?

Answer:

  • Bees and ants are attracted to the sugar-based liquid nectar. It’s a primary component of their diet so they are in an endless search for food sources. 
  • Pest Barrier or Tanglefoot, a clear, sticky resin, is used to trap the ants. It is placed along the main path of the ants in a two-inch wide band. It may be necessary to clean off the old Pest Barrier every couple of months and reapply, as the trapped ants could bridge over the resin.
    • Another option that’s been somewhat successful is coating the openings where the nectar flows with Olive Oil, as ants do not like its taste. 
  •  Honey Bees are a primary problem in the spring and early summer, while Yellow Jackets are a nuisance during the late summer and fall.  The simplest solution is to add a Bee Guard to the feeder.
    • This prevents the bees from getting to the nectar. Bee Guards are available at many garden centers and pet and bird retailers.
  •  For Yellow Jackets, I would set up a Yellow Jacket trap nearby, as the sex lure attractant is more alluring than the food.  If you have one left over from last year, I would rinse it out and replace the attractant on a cotton ball.
  • Traps and attractants are available everywhere.