Question:
We have three four-year-old Crape Myrtle trees that are planted in our lawn. The tree on the west side has always done well and blooms yearly; however, the other two are struggling. The more I water them, the worse they get, and they haven't bloomed yet. What should I do to change things?Answer:
- Crape Myrtle trees and many other species must be planted high in turf.
- This means that the original root ball is above the grade level and not in depression. This allows the water to drain away from the base or crown of the plant.
- The depression is a very poor basin for water. The water basin should surround the trees like a moat surrounding a castle.
- In this example, the Crape Myrtles are the castle. The poor planting technique is the root of your problems in our heavy, clay adobe soil.
- Excessive moisture is collecting in the depression, causing the area to remain very wet and preventing new growth from developing. While they are often planted in turf, Crape Myrtles don't need to be watered frequently. These trees will continue to decline and eventually die if you do nothing.
- The obvious solution is to fill in the low spots, but that doesn't solve the problem. It makes things worse. The additional soil on the trunk buries the tree, hastening the decline.
- The solution is to dig the trees up and replant them. This can occur anytime between mid-November or after fifty percent of the leaves have dropped off through February.
- I'd also pruned them back at the same time. Replanted, these trees should produce a flush of new growth next year.
- To encourage the new growth, feed them in March or April. You can use any lawn food that doesn't contain a herbicide or a multi-purpose fertilizer..
- We need to reestablish the root system, which is being destroyed by the moisture. Crape Myrtles only bloom on the current year's growth. Trees or shrubs that don't flower indicate that they are not growing.
Question:
I've successfully maintained the blue color of my Hydrangeas by using a weekly, diluted solution of Aluminum Sulfate. I've even managed to turn my white Hydrangea blue. Now, I'm curious about the effects of Aluminum Sulfate on my roses, particularly Iceberg, a pure white variety, and Sterling Silver, a pale lavender. What can I expect?Answer:
- You can expect no color change when feeding roses with Aluminum Sulfate.
- Unlike Hydrangeas, roses are not influenced by the acidity or alkalinity of soil.
- The pH scale, which measures acidity or alkalinity, runs from one to fourteen. A seven reading is neutral, seven or below is acid, and eight or above is alkaline. Acid soil makes Hydrangeas blue, while alkaline soil turns them pink.
- Aluminum Sulfate is an acidifier, but there are other options. If the pH falls below five, that's a cause for concern. However, I doubt that has happened so far. You can easily monitor the pH with a simple kit from your local garden center.