Question:
My ‘Austin’ rose bushes, which are less than three years old, need pruning. Should I prune them to prevent them from outgrowing their space or to promote root development? Perhaps I should combine both approaches. Additionally, their first blooms appear on weak stems, while the second bloom has stronger stems. How can I encourage stronger stem development?Answer:
- Austin or David Austin roses, renowned for their full, old-fashioned blooms, strong fragrance, and ability to flower repeatedly, are English shrub roses.
- These roses can thrive in our dry-summer climate with consistent deep watering and protection from intense late-afternoon heat.
- Since their availability at the beginning of this century, they have become a favorite among gardeners.
- Pruning roses in the Bay Area has a minimal impact on root development. Our mild winters enable the root system to develop and expand normally during dormancy, unlike in regions where the ground freezes.
- After every flush of flowers, I prune roses to shape them and control their size. I usually perform the most extensive pruning from January to March, removing approximately a third to half of the bush.
- Additionally, I remove any dead or crossing branches. David Austin roses typically have weak stems, but fertilizing with 0-10-10 or 0-20-0 during the winter months might help.
- Also, the first bloom coincides with the end of the rainy season. Consequently, their large, double blossoms can accumulate extra weight from the moist air and droop. However, this is not a problem with the next flush of flowers because you’re watering the base of the plants.
- Other options include: After a flush of flowers, cut the flowering stem back to a sturdy, outward-facing, healthy bud. This redirects growth to stronger shoots.
- Avoid overfeeding, as too much nitrogen causes rapid, soft, lanky growth. Instead of a general-purpose fertilizer, use a rose-specific, slow-release organic fertilizer in spring and after the first major flowering flush.
- During your winter pruning, carefully remove the weakest shoots. In late winter, eliminate the pencil-thin canes at their origin. A single thin cane can only produce thin, weaker growth above it.
Question:
I would like to plant Poison Oak around the perimeter of my yard for a security barrier. We've been robbed several times, and the bad guys have gone under the fence. Do you know where I can buy it? I would use cactus, but it takes too long to grow.Answer:
- Poison Oak plants are not carried by garden centers in the Bay Area. You may find them at garden centers that specialize in native plants, but demand is close to nonexistent.
- This isn’t the right answer to your problem, since the Poison Oak rash wouldn't show up for days, long after it's intruded into your yard.
- Instead, I'd consider planting Pyracantha, Xylosma, Barberry, or Climbing Roses as a barrier. These plants are thorny and would make an immediate impact if an intruder tried to cross them. They're also faster-growing than cactus and much prettier.