Transplanting A Clematis

Question:

We’re planning a room addition, and two Clematis "Jackmanii" vines are in the way. I know that moving them now isn’t ideal. If I transplant them now, should I take as much of the vine as possible, or cut the foliage back to the ground and move only the root system? The vines are four years old, fully leafed out, and blooming. Is it worth transplanting them, or is it likely to fail?

Answer:

  • I would take the time and energy to move the Clematis plants. There isn’t much to lose other than your time, as the plants are doomed by the project anyway.
  • The key to transplanting established Clematis is to take a root ball as large as possible. I would cut the foliage back fifty to sixty percent or more to make the move more convenient.
    • The new holes should be pre-dug and amended. You don’t want to expose the root ball to the elements for too long.
    • The best time to transplant them is in the morning when it’s cool. After transplanting, insulate the root balls with a two-inch layer of mulch. An alternative, especially in a heat spell, is to temporarily place them in containers and relocate them to their permanent home later in the fall.
    •  They’re going to look sad for a while, and the growth may collapse, so don’t be overly concerned. New shoots will develop from the base of the plants.
    • The watering needs are drastically reduced with little to no leaves, so avoid overwatering.
    • I would position the containers in a shady spot during the afternoon to protect them from the heat of the day.
    •  Your transplanting success will be influenced by the daytime temperatures, with mild temperatures below eighty degrees working in your favor.
  • Several days before moving the vines, I would take several cuttings as your backup plan in case the original plants do not survive. June is an excellent month to root Clematis cuttings.
    • You don’t want to use new or old growth; instead, select the growth that is in between, often referred to as semi-hardwood.
    • You’ll need a sharp knife, scissors, or hand shears to cut the shoots, as you don’t want to crush the thin stems. Each cutting should be the length between one set of leaves. When taking cuttings, gather more than you need, dip the ends in rooting hormone, and place the cuttings in six-inch containers of moist potting soil, or you can root them in individual pots.
    • The container(s) should then be placed on a heating mat available at many independent garden centers and positioned outdoors in filtered or morning sun. Clematis doesn’t root quickly; roots may take six to eight weeks or longer to form, and then you can replant them in their new location next spring.
    • By October, you should have a good idea of how the original plants are doing. You’ll find more information on rooting Clematis at http://gardenofeaden.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-take-cuttings-from-clematis.html     Although this is a UK website the propagation techniques are universal.