Petunias Worms & Thick Skin Crockneck Squash

Question:

My Petunias have holes in their flowers. After inspecting them closely, I discovered worms. How can I get rid of them?

Answer:

  • Worms on Petunias are caused by the Tobacco Budworm.
  • The larvae, or worms of the Tobacco Budworm, feed on the flowers of Petunias, Geraniums, and Nicotiana, which is how they got their name.
    • They feed on buds and petals but can also consume foliage if no flowers are available.
    • Flowers that open and appear ragged or tattered are a sure sign of budworm problems.
  •  The adult is a greenish-brown moth with cream-colored bands on its wings. It is about 3/4 inch long, with a wingspan of around 1 1/2 inches.
    • Eggs are laid on blossoms, fruit, or shoot tips of plants. Very young larvae are yellowish or light yellow-green, but the color of older larvae varies. Mature larvae may be light to dark green, brown, tan, or reddish, often with stripes along the sides and a brown head. M
    • ature larvae drop to the ground to pupate in the soil around their host plants. There are usually two or more generations per year. Tobacco Budworm overwinters as a pupa in the soil.
  •  The 'Budworm Season' in the Bay Area runs from June through September. Scout for larvae at dusk when they are most active. Look for actively feeding larvae, small holes in buds and flowers, and caterpillar droppings (frass or feces) associated with damaged buds.
  • You can control them with Bt or Spinosad. Bt (Bacillus Thuringiensis) is a bacterium that causes a fatal stomach illness in certain insects and worms.
    • BT is harmless to humans, animals, and other creatures. Spinosad is equally harmless to pets and humans. It affects the nervous system of insects that eat or come into contact with it, leading to paralysis and ultimately their death, typically within one to two days.
    • Spinosad is found in Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew and other similar insecticides and is reapplied as necessary.  

Question:

 Our first vegetable garden featured a Crookneck Squash plant. We eagerly harvested our first two squashes, which were large and yellow. However, upon cutting into them, I noticed the skin was hard, thick, and tough, similar to a pumpkin's, making them inedible. What caused this?  

Answer:

  • You're waiting too long to harvest the squash.
  • The ideal time to pick yellow crookneck squash is when it's young and tender, usually 50-70 days after planting, or when they're four to five inches long.
  • Handle the squash gently by using both hands—one to hold the fruit and the other to support the vine—to prevent damage. If the squash doesn't come off easily, use gardening shears for a clean cut, leaving a small part of the stem attached.
  • As they grow larger, they often develop a warty, gourd-like appearance with rough skin. The inside walls thicken, making them less edible.
  • The best time to harvest squash is in the morning.